When I lived in Africa, I regularly came across people from other parts of the world who wondered if we had wild animals in the garden. No, of course not, I would say, we live in a city.

Well, on this trip I have been fortunate to (mostly) avoid the cities, and visit the places where wild animals are, in fact, very much a feature of the general environment.  And wild animals there were aplenty – it would be fair to say, if we’d been building an ark, we would have had no trouble stocking it!

And so, in the spirit of Noah and his ark, let me share with you some of our sightings across Southern Africa.

There were green alligators…

Well actually crocodiles, but at least two that we saw were definitely green (from the algae in the dams), and as so often the case, where crocodiles are, hippos are not far behind.

And long necked geese…

Actually, there were geese, Egyptian geese, lots of them, but not particularly photogenic, so instead, I’ll share a couple of other long necked creatures instead.

Humpy backed camels…

Yes, now that we’re in the Namib, we have in fact seen camels, but only of the tourist attraction ride on variety, and a lone sign on the road, pointing to a camel farm, presumably breeding camels for tourists to ride on.

There are, however, lots of humps in the bush – these are my very favourite antelopes, the majestic kudus!

See the buffalo having a go at each other in the background.  These are imposing creatures, yet ultimate a pushover for other large animals.  We saw them being seen off not only by elephants, but also by hippos and rhinos…  and of course, by each other.  Though I did love this shot of the three asking the big guy permission to cross his river.

There were chimpanzees…

Well certainly monkeys, lots of monkeys – though no chimpanzees in Southern Africa (as far as I know).  These baboons crossing the main road from Windhoek to Namibia…  we didn’t stop to wonder why.

There were cats and rats and elephants, as sure as you were born…

One single “cat” sighting – apparently the lions in Kruger have been literally decimated by TB – and thankfully, no rats….  but elephants, oh my goodness, were there plenty of elephants.  Elephants, elephants everywhere – in the bush, in the rivers, on the road, cavorting in mud pools, seeing off some buffalo…

But the loveliest of all was the unicorn….

Yes we did see these semi-mythical creatures, though we can’t say where, because there be bad men about with guns and chainsaws, organised to deliver horns for no good reason at all.  Truly tragic to hear how many are lost each year, despite massive efforts to keep them safe.  Most visibly, the strategy for those in semi-captivity, to have their horns removed so that they are no longer targets.  Sad, sad, sad…  one day, photos like these may be the only evidence of their existence.

So-called for the dazzling confusion of stripes as they huddle together making it impossible for the predator to discern each individual prey.

Here in the Kruger Park, we have time for trivia… and nothing like a few collective nouns to get one going.  A crash of rhinoceros, a journey of giraffes – and as I sit here surveying the Crocodile River, I have to wonder what a herd of hippos is actually called?  A huddle, perhaps, or maybe a heap?

Our day in the park started early – really early – as we rose at 4.30am for a quick coffee and rusk while filling the many thermos flasks for our actual morning coffee break on the road.

 

6am at Crocodile Bridge gate was worryingly crowded as we waited in the long queue for park permits, but once we were inside the gate, the vastness of the reserve swallowed up the seemingly excessive number of vehicles.

This is a place where you choose to join the crowd of onlookers only when the view is spectacular, as in this sighting of a pride of 8 lions relaxing as if they’d been arranged for our viewing pleasure!

Not all park visitors travel by car, though.

Our ranger called this species “primate on bicycle” – one of the many people who I know not to try to change (the ranger, not the cyclist), though we did ponder on the age of the bicycle, and even more on the age of the rifle (or shotgun?) slung across his shoulder, as he cycled amidst the wildlife, and whether it would serve any useful purpose other than possibly clubbing off an attacker?

In the manner of all good Hall / Jamieson / Sussman bush holidays, a full kit of breakfast goods was packed into the vehicle, for the mid morning brunch.  The ‘skottelbraai’ is still alive and well in the KNP…  hire your gas bottle and wok-like metal dish (in our case two), and you will soon be feasting on bacon, eggs, tomatoes, mushrooms and beans…  yum!

Thank you Robert & Jamesy for the good feed.

Family gathered for brunch…  and Peter took a moment to put his feet up.

While away down the river we watched a hippo arriving rather late back at the water…  must have been grazing a long way from home during the night.

Mind you, the hippos have been incredibly plentiful – not a day goes by without seeing them, usually en masse.  And often out of the water.

 

 

The bush is, as always, full of both large and small sights.  And you learn something new every day.

 

 

 

 

 

 

This a crocodile track along the road – must have been huge is you look at how far apart his feet are (compared to the ranger’s boot).

And who knew – well, probably all of you, but certainly not me – that guinea fowls roost in the trees at night!  Amazing Africa – always fascinating.

It’s been 30 years since Peter and his sisters, with respective partners in tow, were all together in the African bush, so it seems a fitting way to celebrate a family birthday.  Only difference now is that we are all so much older (and so much more able to indulge ourselves in a fabulous bush experience).

Of course, the Kruger National Park is always fabulous…  It’s just a matter of degree.

The experience of Lion Rock Lodge – a private home away from home on the banks of the Crocodile River – is truly special.  From the comfort of our viewing deck, we’ve watched from just metres away elephants eating, and crossing the river, a small family of warthogs wander through our supposed electric fence to forage on our lawn, waterbuck wandering , swallows skimming, and herons hunting…  Sorry, getting carried away!

 On the front lawn, having walked through the electric fence!
Across the fence… (a 6 strand wire fence)!

And if there’s not enough to see from the lodge, we have the added luxury of Johan, our personal ranger, a man most knowledgeable about all things wildlife, with a 10 seater open game viewing vehicle, literally at our beck and call.

On the game drive last evening, he explained the finer points of the different species of termites, as we enjoyed a game-filled drive, topped off by a pause for “sundowners” on the river bank in full view of a bevy of hippos just right there in the water.

And while the wildlife is fantastic – and nominally what we are here to see, the best part really is the evening gathering around the campfire in the boma,  re-acquainting ourselves with each others’ lives, opinions and foibles.  As our experiences have broadened, so too have our personality traits deepened, along with for many of us a strengthened resolve to say what we really think, which always makes life interesting.

The list of things that shall not be discussed when the wider party of birthday guests arrive is growing.  As is the list of that which would be truly fascinating to discuss!  Oh well, pour me another G&T!

I must remember my version of that old faithful prayer:  Grant me the serenity to accept that some people just can’t be changed, the courage to debate the issues with those who can be changed, and the wisdom to know the difference!